Last updated on February 27th, 2022 at 09:06 pm
Cameras
Kodak 8300 CCD cameras
SBIG STF-8300
ATIK 383L + Mono
QSI 660wsg
Sony CCD Cameras
Starlight Trius Pro 694 Mono
CMOS Cameras
ZWO ASI1600
Starlight 294
Starlight 304
What did I choose
ATIK 383L+
My budget for the camera and filter wheel (no filters) will be around $1500 so this will be a Used CCD solution or Used higher end CMOS. I have Bortel 6/7 skies in my backyard so I will be using a mono camera with narrowband.
I ran in an ATIK 383L+ mono and ATIK 383L+ color being sold together on Astromart for $950 shipped to me so I couldn’t beat that and pulled the trigger.
Was worried about the amp glow that CMOS cameras provide.
My concerns with “Amp Glow” CMOS: Looks like the solution was shorter exposure time limits of <2min and take a lot of them since the cooling of the sensor was inadequate for longer exposures. This will probably not be something I need right away because the sensitivity of these CMOS sensors will allow me to collect way more light than I am currently today at 2min. I don’t want this to be a limiter once I get this licked and create more processing overhead to get rid of “Amp Glow”. I have enough to learn about pixInsigh now and what I have found is better equipment makes everything easier.
I ran across Starlight claims for “No Glow” on the CSX249 and CSX304. Can’t find much more detail on how they figured out how to cool these sensors better than everyone else (proprietary I am assuming) but I also cannot find many discussions on these cameras with real world data behind them.